Exploring Victoria, B.C.’s Holiday magic: Twinkling Lights & Historic Sights
We love a quick December getaway, and Victoria, BC is perfect for a festive overnight trip. The city’s charming downtown sparkles with Christmas lights and decorations, creating a magical atmosphere.
British Columbia’s capital city, transforms into an enchanted Christmas village each December, its British colonial architecture providing the perfect backdrop for twinkling lights and seasonal festivities.
Here’s how to spend a perfect 48 hours immersed in Victoria’s winter wonderland.
Day One: Victorian Elegance and Heritage
We started our day on the 9 am sailing with BC Ferries from Tsawassen to Swartz Bay. Soon after departing the terminal the route begins threading the Gulf Islands. At times they are so close you can almost reach out and touch them as the ferry navigates the tricky Active Pass.
Ninety minutes later and we are already being summoned to return to our vehicles. From Swartz Bay, it is about 30 minutes to drive into downtown Victoria.
We decided to start our day with an early lunch and were eager to have a traditional British tea for lunch.
A Traditional Tea Service at Mid-Day
Oaks Restaurant, housed in one of Oak Bay’s historic buildings, offers an affordable yet elegant afternoon tea service that honors the city’s British roots as well as the location’s past life as the tea room Blethering Place.
At a remarkably reasonable $19 (prices accurate as of December 2024), the light tea presents a carefully curated selection of treats: an ample raisin scone accompanied by house-made strawberry preserves, delicate tea sandwiches, a tangy lemon tart that provides the perfect citrus note, and a savory mini quiche.
The simplified set menu eliminates decision fatigue, allowing you to focus on the ritual of tea and conversation in the restaurant’s casual setting. On a Sunday late morning, the crowd was decidedly older but all around us our server seemed to know all the regulars by name.
A Castle for Christmas
Next, make your way to the majestic Craigdarroch Castle before it closes at 4 (signs there suggest arriving no later than 3).
Craigdorroch is a Victorian-era mansion that stands as a testament to the city’s prosperous past. Built for coal baron Robert Dunsmuir but never enjoyed by him, this architectural marvel has served many roles in Victoria’s history – from military hospital to music conservatory.
During the holiday season, period-appropriate decorations adorn the castle’s 39 rooms, with fir garlands and wreathes hanging across its distinctive balconies, and vintage-inspired Christmas trees gracing its palatial interiors.
The four-story castle offers a glimpse into Victorian-era celebrations while showcasing original stained glass and intricate woodwork. The society which runs it has worked hard over the years to recreate what life might have looked like for the widowed Mrs. Dunsmuir and her children.
The society has tried to acquire actual belongings from the Dunsmuir’s (which the children auctioned off soon after their mother’s passing) as well as take clues from similar homes in North America. They are purposefully leaving some rooms untouched to reflect the other uses the house has had over the years including a college, military hospital, school board offices, and music conservatory.
Reading the antics of the college students was particularly entertaining. It painted a picture of the castle as a bit of a fraternity/sorority house of sorts including some who would later be famous Canadians such as Pierre Berton.
An evening Stroll in a City of Lights
As darkness descends, Victoria reveals its most magical Christmas face. Begin your evening stroll at the Inner Harbour, where the Parliament Buildings’ 3,000+ light bulbs create a fairy-tale outline against the night sky.
The reflection of these lights dancing on the harbor’s dark waters creates a great photo op. Be sure to wander the grounds of the Parliament buildings and get an up close look at the lights on both the buildings and landscape.
From here, make your way up Government St. and discover downtown’s illuminated walkways, where canopies of lights transform Bastion Square and Centennial Square into starlit grottos.
Government St. with it’s Victorian buildings and decorated street lamps make you feel like you are in another world, maybe somewhere in Europe.
While the iconic Empress Hotel maintains a subtle elegance with restrained exterior decorations, the cumulative effect of the city’s light display transforms Victoria into a luminous winter spectacle. Inside, there are lit Christmas trees decorating the public areas.
If you have a car and some room in your budget, Butchart Gardens also transforms the gardens with 300,000+ lights in December. The gardens are several miles north of town and advance tickets are recommended.
Day Two: Urban Exploration and Holiday Shopping
Dedicate your second day to discovering Victoria’s distinctive shopping districts and hidden passages. It’s best to wander off the main streets to discover the city’s true character.
Chinatown
Begin in Canada’s oldest Chinatown, where the Gate of Harmonious Interest marks the entrance to a neighborhood of cultural treasures.
The historic Fan Tan Alley, once notorious for its gambling dens, now houses a small, eclectic collection of boutiques perfect for unique gift-hunting. There is also a small museum dedicated to the cultural and historical significance of the area.
Victoria is For (Book) Lovers
For literary enthusiasts, Munro’s Books provides a temple of literature housed in a meticulously restored heritage building.
Follow Fort St. a few block east from Government St and find Russell Books, which offers a more casual but equally enchanting book-hunting experience across multiple floors. As one of the largest independent bookstore’s in Canada, this family owned business contains over a million titles.
For Unique Gifts In Hidden Markets And Alleys
Venturing off Government Street, discover a world of hidden markets and alleys. These lesser-known spots are treasure troves for unique gifts and local crafts.
We zigzagged between Government and Wharf streets, exploring the side streets. Here, each turn reveals new surprises – artisan markets, cozy cafes, and one-of-a-kind boutiques.
The area around Broad Street and the Bay Centre is worth checking out too. We found an eclectic mix of shops selling everything from handmade jewelry to local art.
Tea and Chocolate
A visit to Victoria wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Murchie’s tea where we stocked up on supplies to create our own afternoon tea back home. A wide selection of teas in a variety of sizes is supplemented by tea supplies, jams and curds, and coffees.
Another Victoria must is Roger’s Chocolates. It is a splurge, but this chocolatier has been a staple on Government street for as long as I can remember. Pick out a truffle or cream from the case for now, and take a box home for later.
Practical Tips and Essential Information
Getting There
While Victoria International Airport welcomes flights from major Canadian and U.S. cities, if you are already in the Pacific NW the simplest approach is via BC Ferries from Tsawwassen’s terminal to Swartz Bay. The 90-minute journey through the Gulf Islands offers stunning views and occasional whale sightings. Booking vehicle reservations in advance during peak hours is advised. You can also park at the terminal and walk on. Public Transit is available to bring you from the terminal into the city.
Alternatively, consider the passenger-only Victoria Clipper from Seattle or the Coho Ferry from Port Angeles, Washington. Both dock in the inner harbour, making it easy to explore on foot with no worries about parking.
Where to Stay
For the full Victorian Christmas experience, the Fairmont Empress stands unrivaled. This grande dame of the Inner Harbour adorns its lobby with a magnificent Christmas tree and offers special holiday afternoon teas. We have done this in the past, but it wasn’t in the budget this time around.
Budget-conscious travelers will find comfort at the charming Helm’s Inn, perfectly positioned near Beacon Hill Park and the Inner Harbour.
In the middle, several hotels lie just west of the Parliament buildings. We chose the Best Western Plus, which included breakfast. Our room even had a small kitchenette alcove with a full stove (yes, an oven too!).
Other choices in this area include the Hotel Grand Pacific and Oswego hotel.
Dining Highlights
Victoria’s culinary scene shines especially bright during the holiday season. The bounties of the neighboring Cowichan Valley doesn’t hurt.
Consider 10 Acres Bistro, where farm-to-table takes on new meaning with ingredients from their own peninsula farm.
Il Terrazzo’s brick-walled courtyard, warmed by fireplaces, offers romantic Italian dining in the heart of downtown.
For local flavor, Fisherman’s Wharf’s floating seafood restaurants serve fresh-caught specialties, though not everything is open here during winter.
To view the lights from your table, Milestones has an enviable location along the inner harbour with lit up boats in the foreground and the Parliament buildings beyond that. Yes, it’s a chain, but the food is good and to have this view while filling your belly with warm food when it’s chilly outside is worth something.
Seasonal Events
Time your visit to coincide with special holiday events that make Victoria truly magical:
- The Magic of Christmas at Butchart Gardens (December 1, 2024 through January 6, 2025)
- Horse-drawn trolley rides through downtown (weekends in December)
- Head in from the cold and check out the Festival of Trees inside Bay Centre
- Check out the entries in the Gingerbread Showcase, on display at the Hotel Grand Pacific
- See more lights at the Lights of Wonder at Centennial Square (near Chinatown)
If Time Permits
Should you extend your stay or find extra time, consider these additions to your itinerary:
- A morning walk through Beacon Hill Park, where frost-covered gardens take on a ethereal quality
- The fantastic Royal BC Museum’s detailed dioramas and First Nations galleries
- A whale watching expedition (yes, even in winter!)
- Hatley Castle, former residence of one of the Dunsmuir son’s, now a university (note: there are no tours in the winter but you can explore the grounds and view the exterior)
- High tea at the Pendray Inn, a less-crowded alternative to the Empress
Victoria in December offers a distinctive blend of Victorian charm and West Coast hospitality, all wrapped in twinkling lights and seasonal cheer. While two days allows you to experience the highlights, you’ll likely find yourself planning a return visit before your ferry even leaves the harbor. The city’s compact size, walkable streets, and festive atmosphere make it an ideal destination for a winter weekend escape.
Be sure to pack layers for the cool coastal weather, comfortable walking shoes for exploring, and a camera to capture the magical light displays.
Remember that weekends in December can be busy; booking accommodations and special experiences well in advance is recommended. However, even at its busiest, Victoria maintains an air of civilized calm that makes it the perfect antidote to holiday stress.