Exploring Fairhaven: A Local’s Guide to Bellingham’s Historic Gem
If you’re looking for a charming small town to explore in the Pacific Northwest, Fairhaven in Bellingham, Washington is a must-visit destination. With its historic buildings, locally-owned shops and restaurants, and stunning views of the bay, Fairhaven is the perfect place to spend a day.
When I first moved to Bellingham, I lived in walking distance from Fairhaven and though nowadays I need to drive, it is always a great way to spend the day.
I combined my most recent visit with seeing the WWU Outdoor Sculpture Garden. You can also combine a few hours in Fairhaven with a drive along Chuckanut Drive, Larrabee State Park, a walk on the Interurban Trail, or a walk to Boulevard Park and/or downtown Bellingham. But before we get ahead of ourselves, let’s explore Fairhaven itself.
First off, Fairhaven started off as it’s own town 100+ years ago, but is now considered an area of Bellingham. It retains the feel of being it’s own town even though downtown Bellingham proper is just a few miles away.
Fairhaven is located just south of downtown Bellingham, Washington and has easy access from I-5.
Exploring Fairhaven
Fairhaven Historic District
The Fairhaven Historic District is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and features many beautiful brick buildings that have been preserved over the years. Walking around this district is like taking a step back in time.
For a closer look into the history of Fairhaven, the City of Bellingham has a free PDF outlining a self-service walking tour. Or, consider one of the themed guided walking tours from the Good Time Girls, the name a nod to Fairhaven’s bawdy past.
Village Books
If you’re a book lover like me, you won’t want to miss Village Books. This independent bookstore has been a staple in Fairhaven since 1980. With over 12,000 square feet of space, there are plenty of books to browse through. They also have a great selection of gifts and souvenirs, so be sure to check those out as well.
From within Village Books on the main floor you can connect to Paper Dreams next door for a potpourri of stationary, kitchenware, socks, jewelry, candy and more. From the lower floor, you can connect to the Colophon Cafe.
Whatcom Art Collective
This co-op gallery showcases over 40 local artists from the Whatcom, Skagit, and San Juan Islands, with a diverse range of art including paintings, photography, woodworking, textiles, jewelry, and more. If you are an art enthusiast or shopping for unique gifts, make sure you stop in.
Don’t miss the opportunity to meet the artists and experience Fairhaven’s Fourth Friday Art Walk.
Eclipse Bookstore
If you didn’t have your fill of books while at Village Books, across from the Whatcom Art Collective is Eclipse Bookstore. This is a used bookstore that has been around for years.
This is the kind of used bookstore you go to when you want to browse and maybe dig a bit. There does seem to be some logic to it’s organization but shelves are not consistently labelled. For some of us, there is some fun in wondering what we might discover. On my last visit a book on a stack on the floor caught my eye and ended up being someone’s birthday gift.
Good Earth Pottery
For more local arts, Good Earth Pottery represents about 40 local clay artists. This is another favorite spot to browse.
Food and Drink
There are lots of great places to eat (and drink) in Fairhaven. After a day of walking, if you need to re-charge here are some great options.
The Black Cat
The Black Cat has been around since 1987. You will need to look up to find it, since it is located on the 3rd floor of a historic building that has a mix of office space and retail.
Originally Le Chat Noir (which means the Black Cat in French) and French bistro inspired, it has since been revamped into an American Bistro. The menu is varied and reasonable, and you can get drinks and a light menu for happy hour or late night if the mood strikes.
There are lots of local brews available, although the wine list is more international.
Sirena Gelato
When I want to bribe teenagers to take a walk in Fairhaven, I promise Sirena Gelato at the end of it. They use high-quality ingredients and have a rotating selection of flavors, so there’s always something new to try. I love their pistachio and dark chocolate flavors, but you really can’t go wrong with anything on the menu. They also let you get a multi-scoop dish with different flavors if you can’t decide.
Colophon Cafe
For a hearty breakfast or lunch, Colophon Cafe is a must-visit. They have a wide variety of sandwiches, salads, and soups, as well as daily specials that are always delicious. The atmosphere is cozy and welcoming, with seating both inside and outside. I recommend the patio. Since this is on the lower floor, it can be a bit dark inside.
Skylarks Cafe
Over the years this has been one of my favorite places in Fairhaven. I’ve had casual brunches here and special occasion dinners. The original Hidden Cafe expanded several years ago into a larger space off of 11th St. The hidden cafe is accessible from Harris St. (follow the little path next to Salon Elysium). You can sit in the courtyard here as well. The menu is American Gastropub fare.
Other Places I Have Tried and Can Recommend:
I could make a whole post about the food scene in Fairhaven (and maybe I will) but for now here are some other places worth mentioning.
Jalapenos: A local chain of Mexican restaurants. Has indoor and outdoor seating.
The Filling Station: Great burgers in a casual atmosphere.
Mambo Italiano: Delicious Italian food in a historic building. I particularly like the back room that looks out onto the interior courtyard of the building.
Mount Bakery: Second location of this local eatery. Excellent breakfasts as well as coffee and pastries. Like several Bellingham eateries, they only serve breakfast and lunch.
Fairhaven has a vibrant and diverse food and drink scene that is definitely worth exploring. Whether you’re in the mood for pizza, ice cream, cakes, or coffee houses you can find it here.
Outdoor Activities
Fairhaven is located near Bellingham Bay, so if the weathers nice, here are some outdoor ideas to fill out your day.
South Bay Trail
If you’re looking for a beautiful walk or bike ride, the South Bay Trail is a great option. This partially paved trail runs along the waterfront and offers stunning views of Bellingham Bay. The unique thing about it is part of it is built out over the water like a pier (but it’s a walkway).
It’s not super obvious, but you can catch this trail in Fairhaven. Look for a gravel path near the Village Inn and Ovn Pizza. Follow it, continue on 10th St. for a hundred yards or so, then before the Chrysalis Inn, turn towards the water. The trail goes out over the water here and then heads towards Boulevard Park.
If you continue through Boulevard Park, you can keep walking on the trail all the way to just SE of the Farmer’s Market building in downtown Bellingham.
Boulevard Park
Boulevard Park is a popular location with the locals. It is right along the water and about halfway between Fairhaven and downtown Bellingham.
The park features a small beach, a playground, a large grassy area to spread out your blanket and read a book. There are also plenty of benches where you can sit and take in the view.
Local coffee chain Wood’s coffee has a location in the park so you can grab some coffee and a treat.
The parking lot here can get crowded on weekends, holidays, and sunny days so walking in along the South Bay trail is a good option.
Chuckanut Drive
If driving is more your thing, Chuckanut Drive is a great option. This scenic drive takes you along the coast and offers peek a boo views of the water and the surrounding mountains.
The drive takes you from Fairhaven to the Skagit Valley. The road is a bit narrow in places as well as curvy and you may encounter cyclists. Personally, I am not a fan of driving mountain roads on the “drop-off” side. If you want to hug the mountain side, take I-5 to Skagit Valley and take Exit 231 Chuckanut Drive and head back to Fairhaven along Chuckanut.
Hiking
There are plenty of hiking trails in the area if you want to stretch your legs and explore the outdoors, including the Interurban trail. The Interurban can be accessed from a few spots along Old Fairhaven Parkway. The main lot is off Old Fairhaven just west of 20th St. If you turn south on 24th by the vet office, there is some limited parking and you will shave about 10-15 minutes off your walk.
The trail is open to cyclists and there are some horse trails as well. As you head south, you first go through Arroyo park before crossing a road and continuing towards Larrabee State Park. You can walk all the way to Larrabee at a moderate pace and get there in about 90 minutes. There is a some climbing through the Arroyo section, but once you cross the road the majority of the trail is a wide, flat gravel path.
Other popular trails like Fragrance Lake and Lost Lake trail can be picked up from Larrabee State Park.
If you are up for a bigger challenge, Oyster Dome lies further south and while it has more elevation gains, the views from the top are amazing. Parking from Chuckanut Drive is limited so access it from Blanchard Mtn.
For both Oyster Dome and Larrabee, you will need a Discover pass to park.
Larrabee State Park
This park features over 2,700 acres of forest, trails, and beaches. Aside from hiking, you can walk down to the beach. The beach is rocky so bring a towel to sit on.
Speaking of rocks, my favorite part of Larrabee is the huge eroded boulders along the beach. They kind of remind me of a Shar-pei dog’s face!
There is a campground, picnic tables, and a large grassy area in front of an old bandstand.
For a sandier beach, Clayton Beach has a newly opened trail with a bridge crossing the railroad tracks. It has a history of being a nude beach, but has since “shed” that reputation.
Bellingham Bay & Community Boating Center
For those who love being out on the water, the Community Boating Center offers kayak and paddleboard rentals, as well as sailing lessons and tours. The views from the water are truly stunning, and it’s a great way to spend a sunny day in Fairhaven.
They offer guided sea kayaking tours, and for something truly special will take you out on the bay after dark in the summer months to view the bioluminescent sea life.
Events and Entertainment
Fairhaven has a variety of events throughout the year. Here are some of the regular happenings.
Fairhaven Outdoor Cinema
Summertime brings us the Fairhaven Outdoor Cinema. This event features both classic movies and family-friendly films. It’s a great way to enjoy the warm summer evenings under the stars with friends and family. The best part is that it’s free to attend, and you can bring your own snacks and drinks.
Bring a blanket, as the seating is out on the lawn behind Village Books. The screen is a large white area painted on the back of a building.
Festivals & Events
The Dirty Dan Harris Festival is an annual event each spring that celebrates the town’s founder, Dirty Dan Harris. Attendees dress up in period clothing and enjoy live music, street vendors, delicious food, and various competitions such as the chili cook-off and uphill piano race. This unique festival offers a memorable experience that showcases Fairhaven’s sometimes unsavory history with modern community spirit. Check Dates Here.
Winterfest
This event is more like a month long Christmas celebration. Exact happenings vary but for sure the town will be decked out in holiday lights. Take a horse drawn carriage ride through Fairhaven to fully appreciate them.
Sea to Ski Festival
This annual event is perhaps the most well known event in the whole county, and beyond. It happens on Memorial Day weekend and is a relay race made up of teams of athletes who ski, bike, run, canoe, and kayak their way from Mt. Baker down to the finishing line at Marine Park in Fairhaven.
The event draws competitors from all over so you can imagine the finish line draws quite the crowd and the atmosphere is party like.
Travel Info
How to Get to Fairhaven
From Downtown Bellingham. Follow State Street west towards the bay. State follows the bay and will turn into 11th Street and then Finnegan Way. This will take you right into the heart of Fairhaven district.
From I-5, take exit 250 Old Fairhaven Parkway. If you are coming from I-5 southbound, turn right onto Old Fairhaven. If you were northbound, turn left onto Old Fairhaven. The historic district is just a couple miles and turn right on 12 Street. A few blocks will take you to the intersection with Harris Ave. Turn left on Harris to enter the heart of the historic district.
Parking
Most of the parking in the historic district is street parking. There is a public lot along McKenzie Avenue, just one block south of Harris Ave. If you are not having much luck with street parking, try 11th between Mill Ave. and Finnegan Way.
When to Go
Anytime! If you want to include outdoor activities, then May through September are the best months. July and August and the warmest and driest.
If you are wanting to avoid crowds, do avoid Memorial Day weekend (last weekend in May) as the Ski to Sea Festival draws a lot of people to Fairhaven.
What to wear
Casual dress is just fine almost anywhere in this area. Anywhere in the Pacific Northwest, layers are your best bet. Bring a winter coat between late October through March, and a light jacket the rest of the year. Summer clothes are recommended in July and August, but be sure to pack some long pants as well.
An umbrella will brand you as a tourist in the Pacific Northwest. A hood on your coat will allow you to stay dry and inconspicuous. Want to fit in? Wear socks with your Birkenstock sandals.
Where to Stay
If you are looking for a budget stay in Fairhaven, don’t waste your time. There are two proper hotels here and both are pricey. Look in other parts of Bellingham such as Lakeway Drive, Meridian Street, and Bakerview for more wallet friendly options.
The Village Inn is a small hotel that is decorated in keeping with the historic feel of the area. Continental breakfast is included. This Inn is in the heart of Fairhaven so you are in easy walking distance of everything.
The Chrysalis is an upscale hotel and spa overlooking the water. This would be my top choice for a romantic getaway splurge in the area. Why? On site spa with massages, nail services, facials, and a steam room, plus on-site restaurant and rooms both overlooking the bay. Plus, you are at the foot of the South Bay trail for an evening stroll and a short walk to all the other dining options in Fairhaven.